English: A Night Scene on the Nile, near the Mouth of the Cairo Canal, during the Festival of Gebr-El-Haleeg, or breaking the Canal.. Illustration for The Illustrated London News, 1 November 1862.

Volume 41, Issue 1172 Read the ILN

THE FESTIVAL OF GEBR-EL-HALEEG, OR BREAKING OF THE CANAL. Tuins very ancient and singular festival takes place annually in the neighbourhood of Cairo, and, as its name implies, is simply the breaking or cutting of a dam that is constructed at the mouth of the Cairo Canal after the Nile has commenced rising, which generally happens about the period of the summer solstice. In the space between the dam and the river a cone of mud is raised. This rude attempt at an effigy is called the "Aroosah," or bride; and, to complete the delusion, some Indian corn is sown upon the top. This figure is washed down by the river when it reaches a certain height. It is supposed to have been substituted for a human being who was formerly sacrificed every year by the ancient Egyptians, a practice which we are told by Arab historians was abolished after the conquest of Egypt by the followers of Mohammed. The traditions have it that the ancients entertained such a profound veneration for their beautiful Nile, and understood so well how much they were indebted to it as the sole source of their wealth and power, that, in order to testify their gratitude for past services, and by way of a gentle hint that a continuance of those favours would not be objected to, it was their custom every year, at a certain season and at a particular spot, to immolate a young virgin by drowning. This agreeable process was supposed to ensure an abundant overflow. Although this barbarous custom was prohibited, the festival has been always observed, like others of a superstitious nature common to the Greeks which have been retained and participated in by the Moslems, the festival in question having more of a political than religious character about it. Europeans and natives freely mix together on this occasion. The accompanying Illustration represents a scene on a portion of the River Nile, near the mouth of the Cairo Canal, as it appeared on the night of the " Ydm Wefa el Nil" (or "day of the completion or abundance of the river "), occurring this year on the 13th of August. The amusements are continued throughout the night, and at an early hour on the following morning the water is admitted into the canal. As the religious prejudices and antagonisms of creed are not called into play, every one who can manage it makes this festival the occasion of a little excusable dissipation. Those who can afford it prefer passing the evening on board a " dehabieh," or pleasure-boat, with their families; and, indeed, this is the only comfortable way of enjoying the thing, provided the boat is tolerably free from crawling vermin and the commissariat properly organised. A night on the Nile in one of those luxurious "dehabieh" is agreeable at any season, but particularly so during the hot months, from June to September. Within this period the thermometer averages from 98 deg. to 104 deg. in the shade from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A Cairene is therefore living almost in the atmosphere of a Turkish bath, and is but too glad to drag his attenuated and debilitated form to some secluded spot (after sunset) and inhale the fresh evening breeze, and feast his eyes upon the everflowing Nile and its picturesque shores. The Sketch can convey but a very feeble idea of a scene so bustling and picturesque, as all who have witnessed the festival will readily allow. Shortly after sunset the fireworks commence, and continue at intervals throughout the night. On this occasion the display was more than ordinarily magnificent. The Government, with a laudable desire to please and to amuse, was actually prodigal in this respect. A battery of fieldpieces in position upon the plain, in the immediate vicinity of the canal, varied the entertainments by occasional salvos, the natives having the keenest relish for this description of music. It is quite delightful to observe the intense enjoyment of the crowds of eager, openmouthed, many-coloured people who line the shore, and who are packed so tight that if any one of them ventured upon a sneeze a perceptible tremor would be observed over the whole concourse. Notwithstanding the heat, inconvenience, and fatigue of remaining so many hours in the same place and position, the people bear their sufferings with the most exemplary fortitude. Those of the unwashed, who, being late, have to put up with a position in the extreme rear, which just commands a limited view of a few turbans in the immediate neighbourhood or a stray rocket now and then high above their heads-even these excellent characters are satisfied, and return to their homes and labours rejoicing " Mashallah !" On the water, in a comfortable boat, things are much more agreeable. In order to command a good view of the scene the boats are anchored as near as possible to the Island of Rhoda. This small island is situated opposite Old Cairo, and is celebrated for its Nilometer; it is also supposed to be the site of one of Pharaoh's summer palaces. A spot was formerly shown to credulous and weak-minded travellers where Pharaoh's daughter and her maidens were in the habit of bath ing, and the place where the infant Moses was discovered one fine morning in his basket amongst the bullrnshes. The old sinner of a guide who narrated these tremendous facts is said to have gone farther on some occasions, even to the offering to produce one of the identical bulrushes for a consideration: his terms being too high, nothing more was done, and this valuable relic is now irretrievably lost. But to resume our description of the festival. Having taken up a good position, the spectator has leisure to make his observations with a certain degree of comfort. The noise and confusion are astounding. Steamers and sailing-vessels are crowded together promiscuously; all are decorated with variegated lamps, and most have some kind of amusement on board. Two or three bands in close proximity to each other are indefatigable in their efforts to make themselves heard. The discord is frightful, let alone the eternal banging of drums and pattering of darabookaha (a small drum played by the hands). An occasional peep into the cabins of the dehabiebhs as they slowly drift past reveals picturesque groups of singing-girls, in gay and fanciful costumes. Many of these girls are goodlooking, and mostly possess remarkably clear and soft voices. They accompany themselves on the darabooh, or tamborine. Their services are engaged for the evening, and the company distribute themselves about the decks; as many as can squeeze themselves into the little cabins. Amongst the group of vessels to the right may be seen a squarerigged vessel, dressed with flags and lamps: it is called "Arkaba," and is believed to represent a splendid ship that was used by the ancient Egyptians to carry the young bride to the place of sacrifice. The vessel used on this occasion had a very gorgeous appearance when seen from a distance, like most things Oriental; but upon a nearer approach the delusion vanished, and it turned out to be an old barge resusoitated for the occasion, having been put through a process of whitewash and afterwards embellished with innumerable arabesques or characters of hieroglyphic species, the work of some aspiring native artist, and evidently laid on with a mop. Similar designs may be seen on the walls of baths and coffeehouses, and in general exhibit a charming indifference to the laws of uniformity and elegance. The deck of the Arkaba is covered in for the convenience of visitors, who are admitted on payment of a small fee. Some men, dressed in women's habiliments, perform dances on a raised platform erected for the purpose. A brass band is also in attendance. This vessel is towed from Boulac round the Island of Rhodab, and eventually moored for the night near the mouth of the canal. During its passage a small fieldpiece is discharged at intervals, and rockets are also fired from its decks. In the morning it returns to Boulao by the same route. The large tower to the right is the "Sakier," used for the purpose of raising water for the aply of Cairo.. The method is as old as Egypt itself-vis., that of the water-wheels turned by oxen. Over the wheels pass two ropes, to which are attached a number of small jars. The loop of the ropes just reaches to the level of the water, and the jars, filling as theymove under, are emptied into a tank on their passing over the top of the wheel. Where the water has to be raised a very great height, as in the case of Caliph Youseff's Well at the citadel, it is done by a series of stages. Steam machinery is now, however, superseding this laborious and expensive method. The saving must be enormous in a country like Egypt, that depends solely upon its canals for the necessary supply of water for irrigation. At about midnight the amusements languish, the steamers and other vessels that have been moving about since sunset come to anchor, and some of the revellers are lying about on the decks asleep. On others probably Europeans are still enjoying themselves. A strange and scarcely definable odour is occasionally wasted past of punch probably in course of manufacture by the Franks, and a most decided flavour of stewed onions from the native vessels is tolerably good evidence of the festival being really international and anti-religious. Silence gradually creeps over the scene. Towards sunrise the dam is nearly cut through, and the men, who have been working hard during the night, clear off. An hour after daylight a salute from the battery announces the arrival of the Regent, Prince Ismail Pacha, who, in the absence of his Highness the Viceroy, officiates at the ceremony. The troops then paraded, and some very excellent jerreed practice by some irregulars and outsiders took place, in his Highness's presence, on the plain in front of the Regent's tents. Shortly before eight the Prince proceeded to a spot overlooking the canal and gave the necessary orders to out the dam, which being done, the water rushed into the dry bed with tremendous velocity. At this moment some bags of money, the customary offerings, are emptied into the troubled waters, and, as a matter of course, a grand scramble immediately takes place amongst those already struggling in the water and those who recklessly plunge in, regardless alike of life and limb. This scene is the closing act. The mob becomes (like the swine we read of in Holy Writ) possessed with a legion of devils, fighting together like fiends for the sake of a five-para piece (equal to one farthing). The Prince, having surveyed this scene with complacency, retires, which is the signal for a general dispersion. The long line of carriages defiles on the Cairo road; the troops march off the ground; the boats commence dropping down the river; and the thunder of the cannon announces to the world that the Gebr-el-Haleeg is an accomplished fact.